Apparatus and method for making breast fronts



1962 J. E. HOWARD ETAL 3,058,154

APPARATUS AND METHOD FOR MAKING BREAST FRONTS Filed July 10, 1961 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 2 fire. 1.

INVENTORS JACK E. Hon/A20, LEW/5 A. KAPLAN MG, W

O 1962 J. E. HOWARD ETAL APPARATUS AND METHOD FOR MAKING BREAST FRONTS Filed July 10, 1961 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTORS JAcK E. Hon/A20,

LEW/s A. KAPLAN MGM United States Patent ()filice Patented Oct. 16, 1962 3,058,152 APPARATUS AND METHQD FOR MAKWG BREAST FRONTS Jack E. Howard and Lewis A. Kaplan, Los Angeles,

Calif., assignors to United Cellular Products Corp, Los

Angeles, Calif a corporation of California Filed July 10, 1961, Ser. No. 122,733 7 Claims. (Cl. 18-19) This invention relates to an apparatus and method for making breast fronts for brassieres and other garments. Each breast front comprises a pair of breast cups formed integrally with material joining and surrounding them, with integrally formed outwardly extending elongated bands for encircling the body. Each breast front accordingly comprises substantially a complete brassiere, except for the shoulder straps, means for connecting the bands, and decorative trim.

It is the primary object of our invention to form a breast front or the like from one or more layers of raw material, preferably in the form of elongated sheets Wound in rolls, Without the use of any sewing or seams. Since sewing constitutes a major portion of the cost of manufacturing brassieres and similar garments by present methods, it will be seen that our invention is capable of effecting substantial economies in manufacturing and labor costs.

it is a further object of our invention to provide an apparatus and method for manufacturing a plurality of breast fronts at the same time and through a single operation, thus further reducing the cost of manufacture.

In essence, our invention contemplates an apparatus or method for making breast fronts or the like from rolls of sheet material comprising suitable fabrics having thermoplastic properties such as will cause it to retain substantially permanently a shape into which it is formed or molded through the use of heat and/ or pressure. One or more rolls of such material are disposed adjacent to a pair of mold parts. If more than one roll of material is used, the layers of material are disposed in superimposed relationship to each other between the mold parts. The width of the mold parts is preferably substantially equal to or slightly less than the width of the sheet material.

A length of material sufficient to cover the mold parts is fixedly held between the mold parts. The mold is then closed, with heat and/or pressure being supplied to the mold to form the sheet material into breast fronts or the like. The mold is then opened, the material removed and a new length of material pulled from the rolls for the next molding operation. This cycle is repeated continuously until the end of the roll-s is reached.

It is accordingly among the objects of our invention to provide an apparatus and method for making breast fronts having all the advantages and benefits set forth above and in further detail hereafter in this specification.

A further object of ou invention is to provide an apparatus and method for manufacturing breast fronts or the like which is simple and economical in time, labor and material.

Our invention also comprises such other objects, advantages and capabilities as will later more fully appear and which are inherently possessed by our invention.

While we have shown in the accompanying drawings preferred embodiments of our invention, it should be understood that the same are susceptible of modification and change without departing from the spirit of our invention.

Referring to the drawings, FIG. 1 is a side elevational view of a preferred embodiment of our apparatus;

FIG. 2 is an end view of the same taken on line 2--2 of FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is a sectional view of the same taken along lines 3-3 of FIG. 1;

FIG. 4 is an enlarged sectional view showing the groove in the frame; a

FIG. 5 is a similar view showing the hold-down bar and material disposed within the groove;

FIG. 6 is a sectional view of the molds in closed posi tion without any material disposed between them;

FIG. 7 is an end view similar to FIG. 2 with the female mold and hold-down bar in downward position;

FIG. 8 is a similar view with the male mold in upward position;

FIG. 9 is a top plan view showing an alternative intermeshing arrangement of male molds.

A preferred embodiment which has been selected to illustrate our invention comprises a plurality of rolls 10 of sheet material having suitable properties of thermoplasticity or moldability. The rolls 10 are rotatably mounted on horizontally directed axles 11. A length of material 23 from the rolls 10 is unwound either manually or by suitable mechanical means and passed in superimposed layers beneath a guide roll 22 and across a frame 12. The width of the frame 12 is somewhat less than the width of the rolls 10. The length of the frame 12 is optional with the user and is commensurate with the quantity and size of molds which are used.

The frame 12 is provided around its entire periphery with a centrally disposed downwardly directed V-shaped notch 13. A holddown bar 14 is mounted for vertical movement above the frame 12, its contour being identical with that of the notch 13. The entire bottom edge of all four sides of the hold-down bar 14 is serrated to provide a plurality of spaced teeth 15, which are dimensioned to extend into the notch 13 in the frame 12.

Mounted beneath the frame 12 and within the area defined by it are a plurality of male molds 16, each of which has one or more breast front portions 24, each of which includes a raised portion which corresponds substantially to the shape of a human female breast, together with surrounding areas, including a pair of elongated portions extending outwardly from the opposite sides of said raised portion for forming a pair of body encircling bands integrally with the breast cups, to provide a complete breast front. Each breast front portion 24 is defined and circumscribed by a projecting lip 30. The breast front portions 24 are preferably arranged as closely adjacent to each other as possible, in order to minimize raw material waste. Mounted within the holddown bar 14 are a plurality of femade molds 17, each of which includes one or more breast front portions 25, formed complementarily to and aligned with the breast front portion 24 of a male mold 16. The breast front portion 25 of each female mold 17 is defined and circumscribed by a groove 31, which is formed complementarily to and which is adapted to receive the projecting lip 30 of the corresponding breast front portion 24 of the male mold 16. V

The molds 16 and 17 are preferably formed of solid aluminum and are mounted on movable mounting plates 18 and '19, the plates being moved by a single hydraulic press 20. The plates 18 and 19 are preferably provided with suitable electrically operated heating wires or rods 21; for transmission of heat through the plates 18 and 19 to the molds 16 and 17.

In use, a length of material 23 sufiicient to cover the frame" 12 is unwound from the rolls 10. The hold-down bar 14 and female molds 17 are then lowered simul taneously by downward movement of the upper mounting plate 19 until the lower edges of the female molds 17 are disposed directly above the material 23 and the teeth 15 of the hold-down bar 14 penetrateinto the notch 13 of i the frame 12. The teeth 15 penetrate through the material 23 at spaced intervals and also compress the material 23 against the sides of the notch 13 so that the material 23 is securely held against movement during the molding operation.

The upper plate 19 may be locked in position by suitable locking means so that the female molds 17 will not move during the application of upward pressure from the male molds 16. The upper plate 19, if locked, would be released after completion of the molding operation to permit its vertically upward return movement.

The male molds 16 are then moved upwardly by upward movement of the lower plate 18 until the raised portions of the breast front portions 24 of the male molds 16 are disposed within the complementary portions of the breast front portions 25 of the female molds 17, with the material 23 compressed between them. The distance be tween the male molds 16 and female molds 17 when they are in closed position is preferably the same or somewhat less than the thickness of the material 23 so that the material 23 is subjected to pressure when the molds are disposed in closed position. The pressure is supplied by the hydraulic press 20.

The amount of pressure used in the molding operation is preferably in the range from 75 to 200 pounds per square inch of mold area. The heating rods 21 preferably heat the molds to a temperature in the range from 300 to 340 F. The heat and pressure are preferably applied simultaneously for a period from one to three minutes.

After the heat and pressure have been applied, the plates 18 and 19 are moved downwardly and upwardly respectively by operation of the hydraulic press in order to separate the molds 16 and 17. The material 23 has now been caused to assume substantially permanently the shape and contour of the breast front portions of the molds and thus comprises one or more complete breast fronts for brassieres or the like. The material 23 is removed from the frame 12 and excess material trimmed either mechanically or by hand. The inter-engaging lip 30 and groove 31 help to hold the material within the breast front portions of the molds against movement during the molding operation and provide a complete trimming line between the breast front and the surrounding material. The trimming line simplifies manual trimming or acts as a guide for the proper placement of a complementarily shaped trimming die. A new length of material 23 is then unwound from the rolls and drawn across the frame to start a new molding operation.

It is possible with our apparatus and method to form a plurality of breast fronts simultaneously by utilizing molds having a plurality of breast front portions during each molding operation. It is considered preferable to use as many breast front portions as can be fitted within the width of the material used. In arranging the breast front portions, it is possible to intermesh their ends as shown in FIG. 9 of the drawings in order to increase the number of parts which can be formed with each molding operation. This increases the productivity per cycle and also reduces the amount of unused raw material which must be discarded.

It is also possible to form a plurality of breast fronts at one time. For example, if a complete breast front requires three layers of material, it is possible to feed nine layers of material across the frame and mold all of them simultaneously. After the molding operation is completed, they are then separated into three breast front units having three layers each.

It should be understood that the source of pressure used need not necessarily be hydraulic and that the source of heat used need not necessarily be electric. Any suitable sources of heat and pressure may be used.

We claim:

1. In an apparatus for forming complete breast fronts for brassieres or other garments from flat sheet material, a male mold having a complete breast front portion including a raised portion generally resembling the shape of a pair of human female breasts and a pair of elongated band forming portions extending in opposite directions from the opposite sides of said raised portion, a female mold having a breast front portion formed complementarily to the breast front portion of said male mold, means for holding said sheet material against movement during molding thereof, said means including a bar disposed on one side of said material, said bar having a plurality of closely spaced serrations extending entirely therearound, a groove disposed on the opposite side of said material, said groove being formed complementarily to said serrations and being aligned therewith, said serrations being adapted to penetrate and hold the portions of said sheet material adj acent the periphery of said molds within said groove to prevent movement of said material when said molds are closed, a lip extending completely around the periphery of the breast front portion of one of said molds, and a complementarily formed groove extending completely around the periphery of the breast front portion of the other of said molds, said lip being aligned with and adapted to fit within said complementary groove when said molds are closed, to hold the material within said breast front portion against movement during molding and providing a trimming line around the molded breast front.

2. In an apparatus for forming complete breast fronts for brassieres or other garments from fiat sheet material, a male mold having a complete breast front portion ineluding a raised portion generally resembling the shape of a pair of human female breasts and a pair of elongated band forming portions extending in opposite directions from the opposite sides of said raised portion, a female mold having a breast front portion formed complementarily to the breast front portion of said male mold, a lip extending completely around the periphery of the breast front portion of one of said molds, and a complementarily formed groove extending completely around the periphery of the breast front portion of the other of said molds, said lip being aligned with and adapted to fit within said complementary groove when said molds are closed, to hold the material within said breast front portion against movement during molding and provide a trimming line around the molded breast front.

3. The method of forming a plurality of complete breast fronts for brassieres or other garments simultaneously from fiat sheet material comprising rotatably mounting a plurality of rolls of sheet material adjacent to a pair of molds, feeding a length of material corresponding to the length of said molds from each of said rolls, to provide a plurality of layers of sheet material disposed in superimposed relationship between said molds, said molds including a male mold having a complete breast front portion including a raised portion generally resembling the shape of a pair of human female breasts and a pair of elongated portions extending outwardly from the opposite sides thereof for forming body encircling bands, said molds including a female mold having a breast front portion formed complementarily to the breast front portion of said male mold and aligned therewith, holding all of said layers of sheet material simultaneously against movement by moving a bar having a plurality of closely spaced serrations extending around its periphery and a groove formed complementarily to said serrations and aligned therewith into engagement with each other from opposite sides of said material, closing said molds, applying simultaneous heat and pressure to said molds to cause all of said layers of sheet material to assume substantially permanently the shape of the breast front portions, of said molds, and incorporating a trimming line completely surrounding each of said molded breast front portions by providing on one of said molds a lip extending completely around the periphery of the breast front portion thereof and on the other of said molds a complementarily formed aligned groove extending completely around the periphery of the breast front portion of said mold.

4. The method described in claim 3, said molds being heated to a temperature of approximately 300 to 340 F. and subjected to a pressure of approximately 75 to 200 pounds per square inch of mold area for a period of approximately 1 to 3 minutes.

5. The method of forming complete breast fronts for brassieres or other garments from flat sheet material comprising placing a length of material between a pair of molds, said molds including a male mold having a complete breast front portion including a raised portion generally resembling the shape of a pair of human female breasts and a pair of elongated portions extending outwardly from the opposite sides thereof for forming body encircling bands, said molds including a female mold having a breast front portion formed complementarily to the breast front portion of said male mold and aligned therewith, holding said sheet material against movement by moving a bar having a plurality of closely spaced serrations extending around its periphery and a groove formed complementarily to said serrations and aligned therewith into engagement with each other from opposite sides of said material, closing said molds, applying simultaneous heat and pressure to said molds to cause said sheet material to assume substantially permanently the shape of the breast front portions of said molds, and incorporating a trimming line completely surrounding each of said molded breast front portions by providing on one of said molds a lip extending completely around the periphery of the breast front portion thereof and on the other of said molds a complementarily formed aligned groove extending completely around the periphery of the breast front portion of said mold.

6. The method described in claim 5, said molds being heated to a temperature of approximately 300 to 340 F. and subjected to a pressure of approximately 75 to 200 pounds per square inch of mold pressure.

7. The method of forming a plurality of complete breast fronts for brassieres or other garments simultaneously from fiat sheet material comprising rotatably mounting a plurality of rolls of sheet material adjacent to a pair of molds, feeding a length of material corresponding to the length of said molds from each of said rolls, to provide a plurality of layers of sheet material disposed in superimposed relationship between said molds, said molds including a male mold having a complete breast front portion including a raised portion generally resembling the shape of a pair of human female breasts and a pair of elongated portions extending outwardly from the opposite sides thereof for forming body encircling bands, said molds including a female mold having a breast front portion formed complementarily to the breast front portion of said male mold and aligned therewith, a lip extending around the periphery of the breast front portion of one of said molds, and a complementarily formed groove extending around the periphery of the breast front portion of the other of said molds, said lip being aligned with and adapted to fit within said complementary groove when said molds are closed holding all of said layers of sheet material simultaneously against movement by means of said lip and groove and by moving a bar having a plurality of closely spaced serrations extending around its periphery and a groove formed complementarily to said serrations and aligned therewith into engagement with each other from opposite sides of said material, closing said molds, applying simultaneous heat and pressure to said molds to cause all of said layers of sheet material to assume substantially permanently the shape of the breast front portions of said molds, and trimming the excess material from around the molded breast front portions of said layers to form a plurality of complete breast fronts in a single molding operation.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,904,268 Bronson Apr. 18, 1933 2,190,807 Steinberger Feb. 20, 1940 2,285,967 Hardy June 9, 1942 2,460,674 Bihaly Feb. 1, 1949 2,986,777 Carter June 6, 1961 UNITED STATES "PATENT OFFICE CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION Patent No. 3,058,154 October 16, 1962 Jack E Howard at alo It is hereby certified that error appears in the above numbered patv ent requiring correction and that the said Letters Patent should read as corrected below.

In the grant, lines 2 and 3, for "assigno rs to United Cellular Products Corp.," read assignors, by mesne assignment, to International Fabric Molders Inc. line 13, for United Cellular Products Corpo" read International Fabric Molders, Inc,v in the heading to the,printed specification, line 5, for "assignors to United Cellular Products Corp. read assignors, by mesne assignment, to International Fabric Molders, Inc, column 2, line 47, for "femade" read female column 5, line 34, for "pressure" read area Signed and sealed this 6th day of August 1963.

ISEAL) Attest:

ERNEST W. SWIDER DAVID L. LADD Commissioner of Patents Attesting Officer 

